With no cities or large settlements in Dumnonia (the ancient name for the region covering Devon and Cornwall) west of Exeter, Roman religion never seemed to have got much of a foothold in the far Southwest. Still, there are some fascinating pre-Christian Pagan sites still in existence here in Cornwall, each of them well worth a visit.
The Merry Maidens
Gurnard’s Head Cliff Castle, Zennor
The remains of a promontory fort dating back to the Iron Age can be found on this rugged, narrow headland on the north face of the Penwith peninsula. The fort is named after the head of the fish it resembles in shape, and the remains of two sixty-metre-long stone ramparts enclose what were once sixteen roundhouses. The Cornish name for the headland is ‘Ynyal’, meaning ‘desolate’, and there isn’t a great deal to see, but the original inhabitants aren’t hard to imagine.
Visit Gunnard’s Head: https://heritagerecords.nationaltrust.org.uk/HBSMR/MonRecord.aspx?uid=MNA101333
Tregeseal Stone Circle, St Just
A mile northeast of St Just, situated on Truthwall Common, dominated by the natural outcrop of Carn Kenidjack (itself rumoured to be the source of strange lights, false paths and mysterious strangers), this stone circle is thought to have been part of a ritual complex of three such circles, dating back to late Neolithic times. Their alignment suggests they were built to mark the equinox sunrises, while to the east there are five holed stones, the whole area thought to be once covered with prehistoric barrows and burial mounds.
Visit Tregeseal Stone Circle: https://cornishancientsites.com/ancient-sites/tregeseal-stone-circle/
Carn Euny Fogou & Village, Penwith peninsula
The remains of an Iron Age village, thought to be in continual use from the Neolithic right up until the late Roman period, when it was abandoned. Discovered in early nineteenth century by tin prospectors, and further excavated in the eighteen sixties by the antiquarian and Liberal politician William Copeland Borlase, who discovered and restored the impressive fogou (sixty five feet in diameter!). No bats are mentioned.
Visit Carn Euny ancient village: https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/carn-euny-ancient-village/
Bosiliack Barrow, Penzance
The remains of a single burial chamber, dating back to the Early Bronze Age situated just beyond the eastern extent of a prehistoric field system. The barrow is a unique Scillonian entrance grave which can be found on the Isles of Scilly and in West Cornwall. The roofing stones have gone, leaving it exposed, but the entrance faces the rising of the winter solstice sun just after the shortest day of the year.
Visit Bosilack Barrow: https://cornishancientsites.com/ancient-sites/1851/
The Merry Maidens, Newlyn
Nineteen standing granite stones, or megaliths, dating back to the Neolithic (although a few of the stones are thought to have been moved or added in the nineteenth century). Popular legend has it that these were once young women, turned into stone as punishment for dancing on a Sunday, in defiance of Christian tradition. Also, and confusingly, known as also known as Dawn’s Men (a likely corruption of the Cornish Dons Maen, Cornish for “Stone Dance”)
Visit Merry Maidens: www.cornishancientsites.com/ancient-sites/merry-maidens-stone-circle
James Alistair Henry’s debut novel Pagans is published in Hardback on 27th February.
Available from all good bookshops at £16.99 – get it while stocks last. www.waterstones.com/book/pagans/james-alistair-henry/2928377311766
I hope you enjoyed this guest post on pagan places to visit in Cornwall from James Alistair Henry. I’ve been to The Merry Maidens, but can’t wait to now check out the other spots!
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It’s been a long time since I’ve visited Cornwall, but I’d like to go again.